The Owl of Griffith Park
Folks back home in New Mexico consider Los Angeles to be the throne of Satan. Why do you think it's this cowboy's permanent address? My sister once said during a brief visit to the City of Angels that she wore an aroma of marijuana. This evening her statement rings true as the evening breeze blows down from the San Gabriels into the streets of Burbank, networking its way to the LA Equestrian Center and Viva Cantina Restaurant while bringing along cool mountain air saturated in the sweet whiff of the ol’ Demon Weed. The Cantina's outdoor patio holds my bony Navajo ass in a faded white wicker chair while a whitewashed railing perches my aching feet clad in tired leather ropers painted with dried horseshit.
The year is 2015 and my sweaty salt-encrusted straw Stetson drapes over both eyes, masquerading the illusion of a cowboy taking a siesta. Nothing could be farther from the truth. With arms loosely crossed, I'm actually peering through the aerating vent woven 360-degrees around the crown of my hat. Like all of us, horses are more themselves when they think nobody's watching. A snoozing cowboy is an easy target for horses to take full advantage.
The dirt alley next to the patio has multiple rows of steel hitching posts where almost 40 horses are tethered, 13 of them belonging to Steve Smith, owner of Sunset Ranch, the last remaining ranch in Hollywood Hills where back then I worked as a wrangler. The ranch offers a dinner ride in which I take paying guests on horseback from the ranch at the head of Beachwood Drive in Hollywood up over Mount Lee, then down past the LA Zoo through Oak Canyon and across the swinging bridge spanning Los Angeles River, arriving finally at Viva Cantina. The ride both ways is just over 12 miles and takes 4-5 hours including dinner, unless of course the guests get wasted at the Cantina's bar. There's nothing more challenging than getting drunks safely home via a 19th-century version of Uber, which is the reason my feet are tired and need propping up.
I'm watching the horses through the aerating vent in my hat because horses are as good at untying knots as a challenge course facilitator. The old-timers who still work for Steve have great stories of the past when they came out of the Cantina with their guests only to find all the horses had untied themselves and made the 6-plus-mile journey alone back to their corral in Hollywood. Guests always ask the attractive wranglers to join them for dinner, but I always defer to the patio escaping the boring idle chatter inside but more importantly ensuring our mode of transportation doesn't abandon us. Do we really want self-driving cars?
Two of my favorite things about Viva Cantina are that wranglers eat for free—I mean it's the least the restaurant could do since we're bringing them business—and I also love the live music playing every night by great local musicians. The outdoor server refreshes my 7-Up, chips and salsa, then sets the biggest ground-beef burrito in California before me. Hungrier than a tick on a New Mexico coyote, I satisfy the appetite another honest day's work LA has created. Roxy whinnies at my miraculous resurrection and I blow the beautiful mare a smooch.
On the ride back after dinner, crossing the river then traversing the tunnel beneath the 134 freeway, our journey passes Forest Lawn Memorial Park – Hollywood Hills. The cemetery is naturally haunting on horseback at night, surrounded by ancient oak trees bathing under a full moon whose reflected luminosity casts long shadows upon the massive branches fingering over the trail as an owl hoots from somewhere in the canyon. One of the guests asks about the owl, but sadly at the time I still didn't know enough about the Owl of Griffith Park to introduce her to my riders.
After becoming the challenge course director for Griffith Park Boys Camp two years later in 2017, I would learn exactly where the owl lives who was hooting that night in 2015. She has a huge nest next to the boy camp's zipline tower up Crystal Springs Canyon above the golf course, where multiple scientists study her story of survival as urban wildlife. In 2015, I still hadn't been around long enough to know where she lived, but now I see her every time I climb up onto my Hollywood Hills challenge course. She is the nicest and sweetest friend! I'm so happy she chose to live in an old pine tree on camp property, which luckily has restricted access to the public. I would have to become an employee for the great City of Los Angeles before getting the chance to formally meet her, but even on that night in 2015 riding back to the ranch after dinner, I knew without a doubt this hooting gal was a kindred spirit whom I had way more in common with than the humans riding my horse friends.
Today in the year 2021, I'm friends with a lot of the city park rangers, all of whom worship the work being done at Boys Camp. Ranger Tom is the head honcho ranger. Tom's a good guy. He doesn't wear a gun despite the city's new attempt to make the department more law enforcement oriented. Ranger Tom leads our weekly hikes during the nine weeks of summer camp as we take the campers to the top of LaBonge Summit. On the hike sometimes the kids will get Ranger Tom to share his ghostly encounters experienced during his years of service to the city's parks.
During the 2019 summer camp season while hiking the boys back to camp over the landfill, our procession approached a significant fork in the trail—significant in that choosing the right fork would return us to Amir's Garden and boy camp, while the left fork drops into Oak Canyon along the cemetery where my guests and I heard the owl hooting after dinner in 2015. Stopping at the fork I ask Ranger Tom if he had ever seen a ghost at this spot in the trail. Tom grew quiet before asking, "You saw a guy sitting over there on the boulder next to that eucalyptus tree, didn't you?"
Back on that night in 2015 with the owl hooting overhead I rode point, in front of the group, as our horses climbed out of Oak Canyon emerging onto the abandoned landfill. Industrial orange lights speckle a powerplant turning the landfills escaping methane into electricity. With the dark forest behind us my guests become more talkative. They chatter about the Cantina's amazing vibe before segueing into me sharing my Griffith Park ghost stories.
City rangers and horse wranglers see some crazy things in the park at night. Ranger Tom once came upon a naked man brandishing lethally sharp Samurai swords. A fellow wrangler guiding a group through the park at night came upon a naked woman lying in the center of a pentagram that she had drawn large-scale on the trail. While riding back on a different night after dinner, my group came upon a mountain lion prowling a section of the trail in Bronson Canyon. Rangers and wranglers will concur, ghosts are the least dangerous spirits you'll encounter at night in the park. As we rode across the landfill, I didn't need to share any ghost stories, because we were approaching the same spot where Ranger Tom, four years later, would ask if the ghost I was about to see was a man sitting on a boulder next to a huge eucalyptus tree overshadowing this infamous fork in the trail.
The closer we came to the fork and eucalyptus tree, the more jittery all 13 of our horses became. I was riding Ben, a $12,000 international champion roping horse who has performed in arenas surrounded by thousands of people. Still, whatever lay ahead absolutely shattered Ben's unbreakable resolve that night. By the time we reached the fork, Ben was rearing up, bucking and scaring the crap out of my guests whose horses were becoming unnerved as well. The dark shadow of the eucalyptus tree had until then caped its surroundings like a shroud enveloped in darkness, but now standing at the fork Ben and I both could finally see at the trunk's base an odd-looking man sitting upon a boulder looking perplexed. Politely asking the stranger if he would step out of the shadows to stop scaring our horses gained me no response. The stranger sat immobile while the horses went insane. I subsequently would encounter this haunting man on three different nights.
On the night of this story, Ben nearly reared over on me and I was finally forced to dismount and lead him by the reins, beyond this statue of a man sitting beneath the eucalyptus tree at the fork in the trail from which Ranger Tom, 55 boys and myself descended onto four years later returning from LaBonge Summit. As Tom and I talked about this haunted part of the trail, all the boys grew as quiet as the ranch guests had in 2015 while riding our horses past the cemetery. One of the boys listening to Tom and me discover a shared ghost encounter suddenly heard the Owl of Griffith Park hooting. The owl sent a shiver through the boy and instantly I took a knee, patting his shoulder reassuringly before introducing him to my best friend in the whole hooting world, that lovely timeless old owl who just as this Navajo cowboy is simply urban wildlife, equally as harmless as a ghost.
I say to the boy with confidence, “Ghosts mean us no harm, nor do owls. Tomorrow up on the zip line tower remind me and I'll point out the tree house of the Owl of Griffith Park."